Friends of the Greater Boston area, pack your bags, because we are about to take a trip to the “True South.” The only thing that you will need, however, is your appetite.
Absolutely Fabulous is paying true homage to the city of Yellow, Green and Purple with their weekend Mardi Gras Brunch. It features music, cocktails, décor and of course more amazing bites, courtesy of restaurant proprietor and executive chef Lori Muse.
This new feature is offered at Ab Fab on Saturdays and Sundays 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. The inspiration came from Gary Parmenter, restaurant creative and captain of this cruise. He is a native of Norwood, Mass., through college. However, when he refers to “back home,” he is giving due reverence to the city of culture, history and food — New Orleans.
Graduating college, where he studied hotel and restaurant management while finding love and adventure, he hung up his sails in New Orleans. There he stayed up until that famous year that we will never forget, Hurricane Katrina, 2005.
With 15 years behind him, he took his skills, newfound passion, and confidence to open Mardi Gras Kitchen in Port Aransas, Texas. As the economy down-turned, so did the appeal of the “true south” for Texas. One Boston local would good naturedly joke, “how does a guy from Boston go to Texas and open a Cajun-themed restaurant?” Gary likes to think this was a premonition of what was to come this year of 2014, now in our treasure of a city — Melrose.
Inside Ab Fab
To understand Melrose you have to continue our journey to learn the story behind the birth of Absolutely Fabulous. Yes, a reference to the British TV show that has won the hearts of millions through slick wit and sarcasm, “Absolutely Fabulous.”
Chef Lori Muse, a Melrose native, classically trained at the New England favorite Johnson Wales. Lori is no stranger to politics, having the honor of being a private chef for the Walker-Bush family of Kennebunkport, Maine. This came with several opportunities, including privately catering a presidential dinner on Martha’s Vineyard for former President Bill Clinton.
Ab Fab, as it is fondly known in Melrose, allowed Lori for the past four years to bring home to her patrons comforting, traditional Italian cooking, with the help of restaurant partner Lena Giordano.
The Asiago meatballs are served in a secret family sauce passed on from generation to generation — to this day, Lena’s lips are sealed regarding the wonderful true authenticity of her recipe. You will just have to make a trip nightly to sample the magic of them for yourself.
With the heart and soul of good Italian home cooking combined with the spicy pizzazz of the south, Ab Fab will consistently continue to wow the foodies of New England.
Brunch delights
Now it’s time to see what chef John Zabrowski has prepared for my delectable taste buds this morning. Ahh, a New Orleans traditional favorite and play on yet another brunch tradition: “No Cake” crab cakes with Hollandaise sauce, served with marble home fries.
“No cake?” I ask.
“Yes, we take health quite seriously here, so instead of breading, we use egg whites to mold together the crab.”
Remarkably inspirational, and even more so, are the flavors of the Cajun spices hitting the back of my palette while leaving a very satisfied smile upon my face.
What brunch wouldn’t be complete without a libation to wash down that warm southern comfort in my belly. Gary — although he makes it a practice and vow not to taste his alcoholic mixology — has managed to perfect the Bloody Mary. At Absolutely Fabulous, it’s known as the “Bloody Marie,” named after Voodoo Queen of New Orleans, Marie Leveaux. Rimmed with Creole seasoning, it is another secret of the south.
A “Manmosa” (apparently, to my surprise, I did not misspell the traditional version of “Mimosa”) is also offered if you are unable to take the punch this cocktail provides.
Last but not least is the “Morning Rita,” or as the chef fondly called it, the “problem or the solution to your nightly debauchery.” And as always, full-service bar is available.
Brunch comes to an end, with its spell of fantastical magic and illusion. We bid goodbye to a wonderful experience, until next weekend when Captain Gary Parmenter steers his ship due south for yet another unforgettable ride. As Lori chimes in, “We love our diners but it’s our hope that now, we can welcome them as our ‘brunchers.’”
As I pay my check and prepare to depart, Gary chuckles and says “The city of New Orleans is mad at me right now because, I invented the Bayou Hash Benedict in Massachusetts.” Well, friends, to know what that incredible dish entails, you must check it out for yourself!
Guest columnist Sarah Hinkes is a freelancer writer, and a fan and friend of Absolutely Fabulous.