They are also the most expensive part, in a cost-per-bite analysis, and if this sort of thing puts you off, look to Trade’s more-filling flatbreads. The restaurant makes great use of the Wood Stone oven behind the bar (“the Cadillac of pizza ovens,’’ says Hebert), blasting everything from these to pasta dishes to littleneck clams. The flatbreads are chewy, crusty, and blackened in spots at the edges; the dough is the main event or supporting actor depending on the toppings. With rosemary, ricotta salata, and sea salt, you have a minimalist’s pizza, wonderfully elemental (if pushing the salt envelope slightly). The crust is just as good as an underpinning for lamb sausage, eggplant, roasted peppers, manchego cheese, mint, and drizzles of garlicky yogurt. A flatbread topped with mushrooms, figs, gorgonzola, sage pesto, and walnuts is too busy, however, and the musty flavor of sage dominates.
